Saturday, August 3, 2013

THE NORTH CHANNEL



8/3/13

We made it through Georgian Bay without a hitch (that means not hitting a rock!)and now are headed into less charted waters. Today we are in Little Current for the Haweaters Festival.  The Hawberry is a local berry used for jam (I haven't tried it yet) .  There were vendors, bake sales, ventriloquists, jugglers and the main road was lined with vintage cars during the day.  We have seen the vintage car thing a lot in Canada and each time think how Jack Deckwar would love to be here!!

We have not seen too many other "Loopers" but are now coming across people from Michigan who come up to these beautiful waters to play for the summer.  For some reason, I hadn't expected that. 

The weather is still rather cool and we are dodging afternoon thundershowers.  We leave early in the day to hunker down in a safe spot......hang out with sailboats whose masts are taller for the lightning!!  We try not to let the weather deter us from a good swim.  Yesterday we hiked up to a beautiful mountain lake, called Topaz.  We didn't swim around the boat because as soon as we anchored two hungry 24" snapping turtles came over to the boat for a hand out!! Geoff said that he for sure wasn't going to skinny dip there although locals told us not to worry. I kept explaining to the turtles that I was taught NOT to feed wild animals but they hung around for several hours, looking as imploringly as any  snapping turtle can, until they finally gave up on me.

All for now. P


A snapper!

Lake Topaz, Baie Fine, Ontario

Beautiful clouds

A red car for Jack Deckwar.



Friday, July 26, 2013

WONDERMENT



I was out  skinny dipping for the second time this evening and realized....I am out in nature, checking weather conditions, dependent on the wind, rain, sun every day.  How awesome is that???  For a year!!! I am truly lucky.  Thanks to everyone for their support.  Much love, Patty


DRAGON FLY LOVE!!!


Thursday, July 25, 2013

Georgian Bay AT LAST

Testing our new anchor light- visible for 250,000 miles (full moon over the OSPREY)


We are finding Georgian Bay to be all that we anticipated and more.  The water is fantastic, it is crystal clear and a perfect temperature for swimming.  Since the water is clearer than any other fresh water we have encountered so far on the trip, it is a bit unnerving to see the bottom even when we are in relatively deep water.  Our boat draws almost exactly four feet, and for peace of mind we like to have at least two feet of clear water under the keel, which adds up to six feet of total water depth.  In six feet of water you can see EVERYTHING on the bottom, a situation that is new to us, so we have been consulting the depth meter more frequently, just to be certain we are safe.  The other considerable change for the transient boater is that the bottom, for the most part is no longer mud or sand, but solid rock.  In Florida a grounding (when moving slowly through shallower waters) might be inconvenient but the soft bottom meant no damage to the boat, here, even at dead slow a grounding on this rock is going to take a chunk out of the hull. 

Beautiful.....and rocky

After leaving the Trent Severn Waterway we have spent several days at Beausoleil Island (a National Park), several more days at unnamed anchorages, and now two days at a marina in Parry Sound.  For the most part we plan to follow the small craft channel, which is a charted path leading vessels that draw less than six feet (and generally less than 40 feet in length) through the maze of islands along the east and north coasts of Georgian Bay.  Taking this route gives us a close up view of the spectacular area that claims to have 30,000 islands.  The Canadian charting has proven to be very reliable, so we have deviated from the small craft channel on occasion to explore some less travelled places and it has been very rewarding.
Two crazy Canadians, Bob and Mary (aboard FORFAR), showing us how it is done.....

We had heard that John  and Kathy Sager (a physician that Patty has worked with over the years in ACH plus neighbors of ours on Neil Creek Road in Ashland) frequently visit an old family haunt on Georgian Bay, the Iron City Fishing Club, so once John sent us the GPS co-ordinates, off we went to track down ICFC and the Sagers.  It was a lovely trip through a maze of small islands, islets, granite rocks, and little unmarked channels.  Without a chartplotter and digital charts for the area, it would have been a fools errand, but with a blend of eyeball navigation, an occasional bow watch for boulders, and the chartplotter, we found the ICFC.  We had a wonderful time visiting with Bill and Sue Sager (John's Dad), Laurel and Ben Sager (daughter and son of John and Kathy) plus John's sister Mary and family- her husband Dennis and their daughter Alice. Since, the legend goes, ICFC was founded by fishing aficionados from Pittsburgh in the 1880's, Patty had fun asking around to see who was still a resident of Pittsburgh (her place of residence through college).  She found a few !!!

Bill and Sue Sager aboard OSPREY



 As we head north from here, the coastline will have fewer cottages, the man-made facilities less frequent, and from what we hear, the blueberries juicer. We are approximately one-third of the way through Georgian Bay, once we reach Killarney- which signals the end of our journey through Georgian Bay, about 80 miles distant- we enter The North Channel, another spectacular route of about 125 miles straight west towards Michigan.  Our plan is to be in Charlevoix MI by August 15th, so that Patty can board a plane in Traverse City MI to join a mob of her cousins for a weekend reunion in Minneapolis.
A Georgian Bay Sunset

Tuesday, July 16, 2013





BOATS AND PLANES.........COULD GEOFF BE HAPPIER ?????????????

Geoff is looking for boats that would be fun up at Howard Prairie. Here are just a few.  And Steve G., he has found a plane for you.  Seeing LOTS of float planes.  Only in Alaska have we seen as many.  Vehicles on the water have also made this trip fun.  Police boats, Navy ships, Coast Guard vessels, antique boats, sailboats, partially sunken boats, nuclear submarine station with a degaussing station (look that one up!), aircraft carriers, surveillance blimps, dragon boats, Osprey and Cobra helicopters, canoes, kayaks, dinghies, simple to very expensive power yachts and fishing boats. So interesting!

Canals, Locks and Bridges, Oh My!



7-15-13

Well....today will be a sad day.  The part of the trip that we have  talked about and explained to so many people, The Rideau and the Trent-Severn Waterway, will be behind us. We have completed around 100 locks. The canals and locks are part of the Canada Parks System. Connecting towns, rivers, and lakes, we have experienced much and met many friendly and open Canadians.  We bought a season pass which means that we could tie up at any lock for the night and be ready to lock through in the morning. We could then get off the boat and bike or hike for exercise or get supplies, and we could also use their bathroom facilities. This translates to less holding tank pump-outs which is a charge in Canada, even as much as $25  .

We would definitely do this part of the trip again.  For locals trying to squeeze in fun on a weekend, it can be frustrating to have to wait for a lock to fill.  But for us, we got to talk to the lock masters and other boaters around us and enjoy the mostly beautiful park-like setting.  One person I met in a lock said, "I remember you, I took a picture of you and your boat locking through in Ottowa!"  I gave honey to one lockmaster that I had bought at a farmers market so he gave me HOMEMADE MAPLE SYRUP.  Did you know that it takes forty gallons of sap to make one gallon of syrup?  He has a big kettle in his driveway that he heats with wood and just keeps pouring in the sap!! Yummy!  Geoff and I make blueberry pancakes on a regular basis.

Of course, like anything government run, the lock system doesn't pay for itself.  There is current controversy about raising the fees. This system was originally built for commercial reasons but now is basically used for pleasure boaters.  However, it is not just functional, it is historic, artistic, and recreational.  How do you put a price on all of that? So hours have been shortened and lock tenders occasionally run more than one lock so boaters may need to wait longer while tenders drive to the next lock.

The locks are amazing, many hand cranked to open the doors or the vents to let the water drain.  There is the huge Peterborough Lift built and engineered in 1896.  Your boat is lifted in a "bucket" of water while the other "bucket" of boats and water go down. Check it out online. I believe I read there are 160 dams on these waters in Ontario. 

Ahhhh, the weather.  It has been cold and rainy up until about two weeks ago! Now IT IS HOT!! We cannot complain though.  As you travel up the Intracoastal and end up in Waterford, New York, a choice is made whether to take the Erie Canal or head north as Geoff and I did.  The poor folks who chose the Erie have been stuck INSIDE a lock (for their safety) due to flooding. They have been there about a month and are lovingly calling it, for example, "Lock 11 Yacht club".  So Geoff and I feel very lucky and blessed by all the wonders we have seen and though we may have been a little moldy the sun is curing us now.......right as we enter Georgian Bay with the most clear and swimmable water. YAHOO!!!!

Just a quick note to say that we were recently joined on the boat by our friends Judy and Mark and they made it home without a hitch.....so if anyone is thinking that they are interested in joining us you can ask them how they were treated or if they were tortured in any way! Let us know when you might meet us and we will see if it can work.




Carillon lock-65 foot lift!! That's Geoff in the picture.


Bridge on Ottawa canal

Homemade boat with us in Ottawa lock. This man is from Nova Scotia and was on the Erie. Got out while he could and trailered his boat  to Kingston to travel the Rideau.

Ottawa locks-series of eight "steps". Beautiful capitol.

Osprey docked in downtown Ottawa canal next to jazz festival!

Beautiful farm along the way....clouds, our usual!

BigChute Railway Lock (Lifts you out of the water!!) and OVER a road!

Rural 2-step lock


Judy Blickenstaff and Mark Sell

Titanic?????

Monday, June 24, 2013

On To Canada



Lake Champlain to Montreal CANADA !




The Hudson River took us straight northward almost 150 miles from NYC to upstate NY, headed towards Lake Champlain, as the Hudson began to narrow, threatening to choke off our route; The Champlain Canal appeared, providing us with a man-made linkage (using locks)  into Lake Champlain. 
Lake Champlain is a beautiful body of water  that spreads north and south over 100 miles, giving us a beautiful  ride through rural New York and Vermont- NY shoreline on the west side of the lake and VT shoreline on the eastern shore.  We spotted a cute little town in Vermont, called Vergennes, which offered free dockage (with water and electricity) for visiting boaters, so we couldn’t resist.  It was very rainy, and the trip to Vergennnes   required a rather long side trip up Otter Creek, so we had a quiet and enjoyable 12 mile  putt  up the creek, a narrow but deep creek, flowing fast with all the rain that had fallen, to a delightful Vermont town.
We had a nice evening walking through Vergennes- it played an historic part in the naval battles of our wars of 1776 and 1812 against the British- and a welcome break.
The next stop was Burlington, Vermont, where we visited with Mary, Bob and Tess.  We stayed several days, had a little more rain and even some sun, took our hosts boating on the Lake, and explored some of Burlington.  Patty took to Burlington quick, it wasn’t long before she was twisting Mary’s arm, asking when we could have a house exchange, our house in Ashland for their house in Burlington, I had very little I could add other than- only if we swapped in the summer. 

We spent two nights ashore with Mary and Bob, did laundry, biked about a bit, Bob took Geoff sailing (they have a sweet Catalina 25 on a sheltered bay of Lake Burlington) and Patty and Mary headed out to a wild flower hike.  For anyone that wants to visit a larger version of Ashland OR, Burlington is the place.
We left Burlington listening to a Coast Guard radio warning that high winds were forecast for the Lake, so we headed to a sheltered cove on Valcor Island for a night on the anchor- we had been warned that when the Lake kicks up, the swell has an annoying tendency to “work” around points of land and make a normally perfect anchorage rolly.  Studying the chart, we couldn’t see how a NW wind could ever push swell into the tight little cove we had chosen for the night.  Wrong, the swell, although not terrible, kept us rocking all night.  We finally hauled anchor the next morning, even though the Lake was still angry (wind was still up in the 20’s) and headed into more sheltered waters.  Our next night’s anchorage was what we sought, serene.
Throughout the trip north along the Hudson River and Lake Champlain and adjoining waters we were constantly reminded of the War of Independence in 1776 and the War of 1812, both fought against the British with many battles fought in this territory.  The US Navy had its beginnings right here along the Champlain Canal.  It was here that Benedict Arnold led the fledging US Navy against the British. In fact, Benedict Arnold play a featured role in much of the fighting in these parts, if anyone has a book about Mr. Arnold and the story of his slide from hero to villain, Geoff would like to read it.
As we headed further north, we were forced to leave Lake Champlain behind and enter the Richelieu River and the Province of Quebec,Canada !  The Richelieu River and the Chambly Canal take boaters straight north from the northern reaches of Lake Champlain to the junction with the St Lawrence River at Sorel, where a left turn allows an upstream visit to Montreal or a right turn to a downstream visit to Quebec.  The clock was ticking for us, the side trip to Quebec was very tempting but summer is short this far north so we made the left turn towards Montreal and a two day trek of about 45 miles against the current of the St Lawrence River. The St Lawrence River carries ocean going traffic from the Atlantic to all of the Great Lakes, so we had to dodge a few large, and fast moving, ships as we headed west towards Montreal.
Montreal was a marvelous treat, we stayed in a marina just across the river from Old Montreal, which we visited by bicycle the day after our arrival.  The city and surrounding area is very bike friendly, so we had no trouble (except that we couldn’t speak or read a word of French) riding the big bridge across the St Lawrence River into Old Montreal.  For those of you that have never visited Montreal, you might consider adding it to your list of cities worth visiting. I would add that we thoroughly enjoyed all of Quebec Province, the rural areas were beautiful, the roads very friendly for bicycle exploration, the small villages very quaint (without being even a bit touristy), and the cities very flavorful  and clean. Quebec (the city) is definitely on our list “for next time”.

  

Sunday, June 2, 2013

New Territory

 
6/2/13
We begin week 19 of our journey and have traveled about 2700 miles.  I can't believe that it is June 2 already.

We finished up the ICW with a bang  in New Jersey!! We have met many wonderful and friendly people along the way but when you hit NJ, something changes(besides the NY AND NJ accents).  There are fewer fancy homes, it becomes more industrial and down home and people are hard working and still recovering from Hurricane Sandy.  The ICW in NJ was exciting because you never knew if you would get stuck or not.  It was more challenging (fun) to navigate.  The tides, the fog, the wind, the depths ....we had to be ultra vigilant. We did bump ground a handful of times and once (Geoff and I told each other later)  we thought we might be calling Sea-Tow.  We also had to wait out some 30-40 knot winds before heading out into the Atlantic, the last 25 mile leg toward the Hudson River.  People keep telling us the weather is sooooo different this year!

We had the perfect weather to make it out in the Atlantic to Hudson Bay.  THANK YOU! Sea-sickness is not my idea of fun and I really wanted to avoid that.  The next day we waited out the fog to head under the Verrazano Bridge to.......NYC!  Unfortunately, as we got closer to the bridge the fog thickened.  Geoff studied the radar below while I piloted and kept a keen eye above and we communicated by walkie-talkies!  It was kind of mysterious and spooky to see this bridge appear through the mists and thankfully the barge appeared on the opposite side of the bridge span!  Then we saw her....THE LADY LIBERTY! Impressive.  We anchored out just behind her and could see Ellis Island, Manhattan, Jersey City.  The Hudson River is impressive.  The tidal influence is very much present all the way to Albany.  It changes very quickly from NYC to beautiful rural countryside with rolling hills.  There is occasional barge traffic along the way. Wonderful lighthouses.

We  picked up Geoff's brother Chad who took a train from his home to a park along the river. He traveled with us for a few days and lo and behold, IT GOT HOT!! Ninety degrees!! Nice work Chad!!  Carol, Chad's wife also joined us one of the nights and we had a wonderful re-connect with lots of laughs.

Many people do the Loop and stay at marinas and visit the cities.  Geoff and I just seem to be enjoying the route, the navigation, the challenges, the scenery, the people we meet, the family we have reconnected with and our time together.  Sometimes I feel a little regret, like I should be doing more (sight-seeing/history-reading), but for the most part shoulds just mess me up!!  Relationships are truly most important to me anyway.
New Jersey

Baby Mute Swans

"Is that the bridge we want Geoff?"


THE BROS

Chad and Carol