Monday, June 24, 2013

On To Canada



Lake Champlain to Montreal CANADA !




The Hudson River took us straight northward almost 150 miles from NYC to upstate NY, headed towards Lake Champlain, as the Hudson began to narrow, threatening to choke off our route; The Champlain Canal appeared, providing us with a man-made linkage (using locks)  into Lake Champlain. 
Lake Champlain is a beautiful body of water  that spreads north and south over 100 miles, giving us a beautiful  ride through rural New York and Vermont- NY shoreline on the west side of the lake and VT shoreline on the eastern shore.  We spotted a cute little town in Vermont, called Vergennes, which offered free dockage (with water and electricity) for visiting boaters, so we couldn’t resist.  It was very rainy, and the trip to Vergennnes   required a rather long side trip up Otter Creek, so we had a quiet and enjoyable 12 mile  putt  up the creek, a narrow but deep creek, flowing fast with all the rain that had fallen, to a delightful Vermont town.
We had a nice evening walking through Vergennes- it played an historic part in the naval battles of our wars of 1776 and 1812 against the British- and a welcome break.
The next stop was Burlington, Vermont, where we visited with Mary, Bob and Tess.  We stayed several days, had a little more rain and even some sun, took our hosts boating on the Lake, and explored some of Burlington.  Patty took to Burlington quick, it wasn’t long before she was twisting Mary’s arm, asking when we could have a house exchange, our house in Ashland for their house in Burlington, I had very little I could add other than- only if we swapped in the summer. 

We spent two nights ashore with Mary and Bob, did laundry, biked about a bit, Bob took Geoff sailing (they have a sweet Catalina 25 on a sheltered bay of Lake Burlington) and Patty and Mary headed out to a wild flower hike.  For anyone that wants to visit a larger version of Ashland OR, Burlington is the place.
We left Burlington listening to a Coast Guard radio warning that high winds were forecast for the Lake, so we headed to a sheltered cove on Valcor Island for a night on the anchor- we had been warned that when the Lake kicks up, the swell has an annoying tendency to “work” around points of land and make a normally perfect anchorage rolly.  Studying the chart, we couldn’t see how a NW wind could ever push swell into the tight little cove we had chosen for the night.  Wrong, the swell, although not terrible, kept us rocking all night.  We finally hauled anchor the next morning, even though the Lake was still angry (wind was still up in the 20’s) and headed into more sheltered waters.  Our next night’s anchorage was what we sought, serene.
Throughout the trip north along the Hudson River and Lake Champlain and adjoining waters we were constantly reminded of the War of Independence in 1776 and the War of 1812, both fought against the British with many battles fought in this territory.  The US Navy had its beginnings right here along the Champlain Canal.  It was here that Benedict Arnold led the fledging US Navy against the British. In fact, Benedict Arnold play a featured role in much of the fighting in these parts, if anyone has a book about Mr. Arnold and the story of his slide from hero to villain, Geoff would like to read it.
As we headed further north, we were forced to leave Lake Champlain behind and enter the Richelieu River and the Province of Quebec,Canada !  The Richelieu River and the Chambly Canal take boaters straight north from the northern reaches of Lake Champlain to the junction with the St Lawrence River at Sorel, where a left turn allows an upstream visit to Montreal or a right turn to a downstream visit to Quebec.  The clock was ticking for us, the side trip to Quebec was very tempting but summer is short this far north so we made the left turn towards Montreal and a two day trek of about 45 miles against the current of the St Lawrence River. The St Lawrence River carries ocean going traffic from the Atlantic to all of the Great Lakes, so we had to dodge a few large, and fast moving, ships as we headed west towards Montreal.
Montreal was a marvelous treat, we stayed in a marina just across the river from Old Montreal, which we visited by bicycle the day after our arrival.  The city and surrounding area is very bike friendly, so we had no trouble (except that we couldn’t speak or read a word of French) riding the big bridge across the St Lawrence River into Old Montreal.  For those of you that have never visited Montreal, you might consider adding it to your list of cities worth visiting. I would add that we thoroughly enjoyed all of Quebec Province, the rural areas were beautiful, the roads very friendly for bicycle exploration, the small villages very quaint (without being even a bit touristy), and the cities very flavorful  and clean. Quebec (the city) is definitely on our list “for next time”.

  

Sunday, June 2, 2013

New Territory

 
6/2/13
We begin week 19 of our journey and have traveled about 2700 miles.  I can't believe that it is June 2 already.

We finished up the ICW with a bang  in New Jersey!! We have met many wonderful and friendly people along the way but when you hit NJ, something changes(besides the NY AND NJ accents).  There are fewer fancy homes, it becomes more industrial and down home and people are hard working and still recovering from Hurricane Sandy.  The ICW in NJ was exciting because you never knew if you would get stuck or not.  It was more challenging (fun) to navigate.  The tides, the fog, the wind, the depths ....we had to be ultra vigilant. We did bump ground a handful of times and once (Geoff and I told each other later)  we thought we might be calling Sea-Tow.  We also had to wait out some 30-40 knot winds before heading out into the Atlantic, the last 25 mile leg toward the Hudson River.  People keep telling us the weather is sooooo different this year!

We had the perfect weather to make it out in the Atlantic to Hudson Bay.  THANK YOU! Sea-sickness is not my idea of fun and I really wanted to avoid that.  The next day we waited out the fog to head under the Verrazano Bridge to.......NYC!  Unfortunately, as we got closer to the bridge the fog thickened.  Geoff studied the radar below while I piloted and kept a keen eye above and we communicated by walkie-talkies!  It was kind of mysterious and spooky to see this bridge appear through the mists and thankfully the barge appeared on the opposite side of the bridge span!  Then we saw her....THE LADY LIBERTY! Impressive.  We anchored out just behind her and could see Ellis Island, Manhattan, Jersey City.  The Hudson River is impressive.  The tidal influence is very much present all the way to Albany.  It changes very quickly from NYC to beautiful rural countryside with rolling hills.  There is occasional barge traffic along the way. Wonderful lighthouses.

We  picked up Geoff's brother Chad who took a train from his home to a park along the river. He traveled with us for a few days and lo and behold, IT GOT HOT!! Ninety degrees!! Nice work Chad!!  Carol, Chad's wife also joined us one of the nights and we had a wonderful re-connect with lots of laughs.

Many people do the Loop and stay at marinas and visit the cities.  Geoff and I just seem to be enjoying the route, the navigation, the challenges, the scenery, the people we meet, the family we have reconnected with and our time together.  Sometimes I feel a little regret, like I should be doing more (sight-seeing/history-reading), but for the most part shoulds just mess me up!!  Relationships are truly most important to me anyway.
New Jersey

Baby Mute Swans

"Is that the bridge we want Geoff?"


THE BROS

Chad and Carol